At many restaurants way up high or along the water, the views are effectively on the menu: to distract from (and atone for) any stumbles by the food. Happily, Rivea in the Delano tower doesn’t belong to this category. Consider the restaurant’s summer corn and ricotta ravioli, which would taste as good in a hobbit hole as they do 64 floors above the Strip.
Chef Alexandre Gregoire said he drew inspiration for the dish from elote, the…